Book Review: “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers”

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Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

In the middle of a crowded lineup maelstrom, it is always good to reflect on what brings you back to the ocean to ride those lumps of water. During weekend warrior sprints to populous breaks, sometimes we forget what draws us back to these same spots–OR–what makes us pile a hefty truck with apocalyptic supplies to seek out empty forgotten peaks—besides the beefy local who’s board you dinged last Sunday.

Face it–you weren’t always a shredder and you might have someone or something to thank for your salty introduction. Author Joseph Tomarchio’s book “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” showcases anecdotes from the every day surfer’s first time experiencing what it means to be “stoked.” From beautiful Hawaiian surf prayers to a gritty tale about fighting the temptation to paddle out during an all-time swell or study for an exam, each short story showcases tangible moments many of us have experienced post-salt water intro.

Much like surfing a new peak and experiencing the local surf banter, each of these excerpts has a unique voice describing their first time standing up on a board or beating the odds against a physical incapability just to be in the water. Heartfelt and inspiring, this book will pull at your heartstrings while you fondly recapture your own experiences, sans sunny Sunday with a beefy local’s close encounter, of course.

One of my favorite featured excerpts:

“Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn’t view such a moment without an ardent, frustrated desire, a bear-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while on might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine-yearnings…for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world’s better moments-the wave’s plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit.”

For more information about “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” or to submit your own story, click here!

An October Throwback

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All-time destruction engulfs California while a fall swell lights up the coast—-never has it been more selfish to be a surfer.

The cause? Consistent Santa Ana winds blowing at speeds of 85 miles an hour out of the east in addition to drought conditions and some jerk with a pyro-fantasy.

October 2007 saw a massive outbreak of wildfires which consumed over 970,000 acres that stretched from Santa Barbara county to the U.S.-Mexico border. Much of the densely populated Southern California experienced approximately 30 wildfires in late October which were then contained by the beginning of November.

Clouds of smoke cloaked the sun which casted an eerie orange hue in the sky while surfers coughed and choked their way through the lineup. Smiles could barely be seen from the sand as rebels were spat out of each barrel’s temporary “orange room”–a mouth full of toxic air awaiting each grin.

“Did you see my barrel?! It was so $%@^%# !!” while ash slowly fell like rain all over Orange County.

It was hard to determine the central conflict: surf while fires raged and local communities cried for help, risk inhaling a five year supply of smoke -or- miss out of some of the most perfect barrels.

There were some who talked of volunteering while each Santa Ana-groomed set wave emptied like a perfect tee-pee over the sandbar. Some announced the amount of cigarettes this surf session would equate to while others casted those loudmouths dirty looks.

I CONFESS: I surfed 36th street in Newport Beach that day while I watched clouds of smoke billow from the hills. Yea, I felt guilty, so it didn’t surprise me when I later contracted several terrible sinus infections in the months to follow.

But—the barrels were #@%$#&&!@!!

Central American Daydreams

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While the work day spins madly on, at times, there is a need to catch up on personal mental sanity as the work week ends. A light sparks when a Surfer Magazine link files into my surf news feed about an ambiguous Central American break that is near and dear to yours truly. While my feet huddle inside a pair of stale black heels, Pro Surfer Cody Thompson shreds a sandy beach break in 80 degree water. Even though this spot is pretty much a giveaway by now, for all intents and purposes, I’m so glad Surfer Mag didn’t name it.

 

Pre-teen Opens Paddleboard Business

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She’s not your average C.E.O.

Sage Offutt sports ponytails and loves to rock out to Sheppard’s “Geronimo” with her besty as much as possible.

But still–this pre-teen means business…#forreal

While most 12 year old girls spend their spring break and summer vacations soaking up the sun, listening to tunes or developing summer crushes, Sage Offutt decided to take her fun-in-the-sun activity to the next level on the crystal clear waters of Navarre, Florida. The chipper Colorado native has opened her own paddleboard rental business, Sage Paddle Co., featuring the latest Pop Paddleboards and hasn’t looked back since.

“Every time we go paddleboarding as a family, we would get questions like ‘oh my gosh, where did you rent the boards and where can I get one?’” said Offutt. “So we started to see that there was a need on the island for this. We are a very outdoorsy family and love any activity in general.”

After taking a small loan out from her parents, Offutt invested in six paddleboards under the condition that she pay them back by the end of the summer.

“Within 17 days after the first rental, I had not only paid my parents back for all six boards, but I had also invested in a golf cart to go with a trailer that we already had for the paddleboards.” said Offutt.

What started as a business conducted virtually over the web has since blossomed into a physical location for Offutt’s booming profession. The young pre-teen has partnered with REMAX Vacation Rentals on Narvarre Beach as their official supplier of six ocean kayaks as well as over two dozen paddleboards.

“When I first came across Sage, I couldn’t believe she was 12 years old and running her own business,” said Pop Founder Nick Lanfranco. “Most kids at that age are opening lemonade stands, but not Sage. She is a mature young lady who is going to have a bright future!”

After scouring the web for paddleboard companies, Offutt concluded that Pop resonated with Sage Paddle Co.’s life style. Most importantly the two companies share the same value as Sage Paddle Co.’s motto, which originated from Offutt’s grandma:

“Live life to it’s fullest and without regret.”

“I really like the Throwback,” said Offutt. “I have a very bubbly bright personality and I think that board really represents me. Pop’s video on the throwback board is actually my favorite video that they have.”

Never Ending Summer – POP Paddleboards from POP Paddleboards on Vimeo.

Whether she’s on a boat, surfboard or paddleboard, Offutt has always been on the water as early as she can remember. Since she was six years old paddling on Chatfield Lake with her father, Offutt found her passion for the ocean through paddleboarding.

Dolphins swim alongside a boat off of Dana Point, CA. Photo: C.O.A.S.G.

Dolphins swim alongside a boat off of Dana Point, CA.
Photo: C.O.A.S.G.

“For me paddleboarding is a stress reliever,” said Offutt. “I can paddle on the water and just clear my mind. I’ve had a lot of experiences with dolphins. Sometimes they jump over our paddleboard, you can literally reach out and touch them. We have seen a lot of sting rays, jelly fish, turtles and a few sharks.”

Not only does Sage Paddle Co. rent boards for the visitors of Navarre, but they also deliver and teach lessons.

“I love seeing people’s reaction when they have that moment of success, when they finally get to stand up on the board–that is really important for me. I get really passionate about that,” said Offutt. “I want to share that with other people so they know what it’s like.”

Offutt hopes to become more involved with giving back to her local community, as well.

“My mom is a special education teacher, so I’ve grown up with a lot of autistic kids and got to work with them,” said Offutt. “I want to do something where they can get a chance to paddleboard, too.”

Today: Navarre

Tomorrow: The world

Photo Courtesy: Pop Paddleboards

Photo Courtesy: Pop Paddleboards

// Post-Surf Mood //

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PRESS PLAY.

You know that feeling.

It happens right after you pry yourself away from a notoriously crowded lineup where the surf was not only perfect, but you also managed to gorge yourself on said perfect waves…like the surf glutton that you secretly are.

Don’t worry: I won’t tell.

~So~

There’s only one thing left to do: A happy dance…to this song.

Soak it up while you can.

Summer’s a-comin’…

Photo: Seabreeze.com.au

Photo: Seabreeze.com.au

 

‘Resurface’ Documentary to Show Ocean’s Positive Effects for Military Veterans

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The ocean has many remarkable benefits to our ecosystems and society, one of which is it’s rehabilitative effect on individuals suffering from physical or psychological hardships, such as Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. The upcoming documentary Resurface features the story about United States Marine Corps infantryman Bobby Lane who, while on tour in Iraq, suffered two traumatic brain injuries when his troop was hit by five roadside bombs within an 11 day span.

After returning home where he suffered many sleepless nights along with thoughts of suicide, Lane traveled from Texas to California to learn how to surf–his final bucket list item. Now Lane credits surfing with saving his life by helping him cope with his post-combat struggles.

Resurface showcases candid video footage and extensive research about water’s effect on the human brain. The documentary highlights the therapeutic outcome of surfing through the support of organizations who are dedicated to serving United States veterans.

There is an innate reason why the act of surfing puts people in such a good mood!

Based out of the San Francisco Bay area, Resurface  Director Josh Izenberg and Producer Scott Stillman CONFESS their insight on the film’s aspirations and message. Read on!

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

What are Resurface’s’ main goals?

Josh: First and foremost to make a great film and tell a great story, as a filmmaker. We want to raise awareness around the powers of surf, movement and being out in the world in general, as a therapeutic way to heal.

We want to really humanize and tell the story about people with PTSD from a veteran’s perspective. There is a big gap between what veterans go through and what civilians and non-military think and understand about the military experience. One thing we would like to do is close that gap just a little bit and let some of these vets tell their stories

Scott: From a personal standpoint,  I just started surfing a few years ago and felt a new level of peace and connectedness. It was amazing to feel that and to then discover that there are actually people out there who teach surfing as a way to rehabilitate PTSD, depression and traumatic brain injuries. I wanted to be involved in raising awareness for that issue because I really do think there are therapeutic benefits to being in and around the water.

What was the most helpful resource for your film?

Photo Courtesy: Wynn Padula

Photo Courtesy: Wynn Padula

Josh:  I think the biggest resources, by far, have been the Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation and Operation Surf. This is huge. If we just said ‘hey let’s show up with our cameras and you guys do your thing,’ it would not have been enough.

Scott: We also interviewed Dr. Wallace J.Nichols, Marine Biologist. He wrote the New York Times’ best seller Blue Mind, which has really been the anthology of the most recent research and studies about the benefits of water and people. He was pretty insightful in his interview and his book was a helpful resource, too. He is providing the academic research side to this project. The science and the data are actually backing up what we feel.

What were some of the obstacles that you overcame while working on this piece?

Josh: The waves are unpredictable. It’s tough to shoot in the water, even when the waves are perfect in addition to making trips to southern California. We are totally dependent on good surf. Sometimes the waves weren’t always doing what we wanted them to do. It’s tricky but we made it work.

Scott: We really hope we can get the Kickstarter funds to finish this film because we want to get it out there. I think it’s going to be really powerful to accomplish the goals that Josh went over earlier.

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

What can the viewer do to make a difference?

Josh: We want to get the word out about the film and the campaign, so contribute to the Kickstarter campaign and also share it among like-minded folks who would be interested in participating.

Any parting thoughts about ‘Resurface?’

Scott: I would love to screen the film at different organizations that work with veterans and also even take it to the Veterans Affairs hospitals and set up screenings there.

I think it comes down to a knowledge gap where people don’t even know that organizations like Jimmy Miller and Operation Surf are out there. The more we can speak to the community who are in touch with veterans, the more likely they become involved with programs like these. Even in the middle of the country, where there is no access to the ocean, there are organizations that work with veterans going kayaking or fly fishing on the water.

Even if it’s not surfing, just being around the water is helpful.

 

Resurface is expected to release Fall 2015. Please donate to the Resurface Kickstarter Campaign and support this film’s production and message!

 

Photo Courtesy: Owen Bissell

Photo Courtesy: Owen Bissell

Keep up with the latest news about the film on:

For more information about how you can get involved with these amazing organizations, visit:

The Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation

~and~

Operation Surf

 

[sharify]

Morning Goodness

You Missed Out

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January 25, 2015–San Clemente, Calif….where were you?

Confessions of an Angeleno

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The iconic Malibu-second point during a recent swell.

The iconic Malibu-second point during a recent swell.

Words and Photos By: David “Crappy” Campbell 

The City of Trashy Angels…The Big Smoke that can’t hide it’s big city lights or the fake tits bolted on to even more fake plastic people who’s inflated egos hide smashed dreams. Los Angeles is a one-of-a-kind gem.  Not for everyone, to say the least. You have to possess a certain mindset in this city to deal with some of the bull.

The sometimes amazing surf helps, tho.

The Los Angeles surf scene is very different from Ventura County to it’s north and Orange County to it’s south. It’s rich surf history only rivals Hawaii and Australia’s Gold Coast expelling much of the early surf stardom icons that brought forth a rash of Gidget and Moondoggie wannabe’s.

Love it, hate it, either way,  surely you have some kind of opinion to share, whether asked or not–regardless of your local surf scene knowledge.  You probably have something to say about it. This city isn’t exactly known for being hush-hush.

I CONFESS: I’ve been around a few parts of our small circuit of surf towns across the globe–I’m not gloating, but feel it necessary to lay out a statement: L.A. is actually a nice place for a surfer to live.

If you defend your town, which happens to be Los Angeles, you better be prepared to have your credentials looked over. A dark cloud hovers over the Los Angeles County surf scene when viewed from the eyes’ of strangers. Sure, everyone knows about the famous spots, but it feels like whenever other Californians talk about Los Angeles, they always have some kind of ignorant look on their face. All they know is that it can get good, but it’s crowded as hell and it’s not that consistent.

If you had to use one word that separates L.A. from neighboring Orange County and Ventura, it would be “diversity.”  From the Palos Verdes cliffs and north to County Line–wait, is that a Beach Boys line? It almost is, actually– you can find your hollow A-frame beach breaks, mushy longboard waves, even some select slabs and a very secretive big wave spot. The Big Smoke has something for everyone.

Glassy, clean and not empty.

Glassy, clean and not empty at Manhattan Beach.

That’s right: As in everyone and their red-headed step-cousin from Oklahoma.

Diversity brings some pretty kooky shit to the lineup and it might have something to do with that giant white sign that use to say “Hollywoodland.”  This particular surf culture crosses paths with the affluent Hollywood scene and sometimes that path gets blurred, which has propelled this sport into the mainstream media–some say for better, others say for worse.

Stories of Daniel Tosh regulating line ups…the local crew smashing paparazzi’s cameras while they attempt to troll for Matthew McConaughey…apparently, Rob Lowe sharing his gear from his fully stocked shed.

The L.A. surf scene is more than often a ZOO, especially in the summer. A giant zoo fuckfest, actually.  But you gotta do your homework here, put in your time, have the right mindset, right amount of free time and a good set of wheels.  Doesn’t hurt to have  some friends, the right friends. Not A-list or D-list friends, but the kind  that follow sand and are willing to share their personal surf reports with you as opposed to five thousand of their closest friends on Instagram.

You like right points and boardshorts? Summer time in North L.A. has that for you.  You like big hollow kegs? Look up some YouTube videos of Alex Gray surfing the South Bay last fall.  The obvious variables (weather, tide, swell angle) offer all types of waves which is the key to this abundant and vibrant surf scene.

Ever hung around L.A. on Christmas Day? Looks like the set of a zombie apocalypse film minus our flesh-craving buddies. Empty parking lots, no one around, no traffic…it’s fantastically amazing! A ghost town of grand proportions!

Traffic is the real big mother of L.A. and can be the deciding factor for your sunset session. Everyone knows traffic is the work of the devil and represents everything that is soulless. Everyone loves to complain about it, too. My advice? Get over it, shut up and figure it out. Get your routes down.  Plan accordingly. You wanna go east on the ten after 7 a.m.–Are you out of your freakin’ mind? Even when I get caught up in gridlock, I always like to take Dillion Perrilo’s advice on traffic, as said in a recent interview:

“Just realize that you are the traffic.”

Whoa, pretty deep there Dillion, but spot on.

So minus the traffic shit show, you got swells from both directions at different times of the year.

During the winter, head towards South Bay and find your sandbar, or go north. Oxnard and Ventura are easy drives and you can find empty peaks, if you know where to look. In the Summertime, you have the sweet points of Malibu and 27 miles of coastline options. The obvious ones are Topanga, the ‘Bu and County Line, (not gonna offer anything more than that).  With well-known spots comes a fun crowd, which is why Angelenos hold their cards so closely to their chest. And the crowds here can get real interesting.

A great spot called 'None of your business.'

A great spot called ‘None of your business.’

Seen some heavy shit here. Someone got the barrel of a lifetime and was about to make a clean exit into glory, but upon a lovely exit, someone else thought that wave was actually THEIR wave of the day. The drop-in game was strong with this barney as homeboy deep in tube gets crushed by said barney directly on top of the head. It was disgusting enough for everyone to wanna exit the water in shame.  Or how about the stories of people getting cut off at Topanga? When they raise their voice against this injustice, instead of getting an apology, they get a good slapping. As your surfing ability progresses, crowd navigation becomes a major part of your routine.  L.A. kicks it up a notch by constantly testing your patience.

If you don’t follow @kook_of_the_day on Instagram, stop reading this right now and make that follow.  Most of those posts come from somewhere in Los Angeles as well as Main Street in Huntington Beach. Kooky people are plentiful and L.A. county has about 10 million options among it’s dudes and dudettes hanging around. It seems they all wanna surf right where you wanna surf, or at least get in your way while you surf.

The surf world is expanding and crowds are just another factor you have to deal with. Do your homework, follow swell directions, follow the sand and you can score L.A.’s fun waves with minimal folk.  It’s not as simple as parking your car and walking out to T-street. Surfing and city life is a hassle at times and you will get frustrated. But nothing worthwhile in life comes easy, just ask any intern on a Hollywood film set.

Crappy Campbell confesses...

Crappy Campbell confesses…

David Campbell lives in Los Angeles, is a surfer, world traveler and an old pal. Also known as “Crappy Campbell,” he is regular contributor for  Australia’s Surfing Life Magazine.

Marine Layer Productions: One from the Archives

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I CONFESS: Just can’t escape the surf stylings of Mr. Reynolds charging heavy (and not so heavy) Ventura surf…like it’s no biggie. Cold, windy and heavy conditions, especially when there are thick neoprene layers and booties involved, will usually send me packing. However, Dane Reynolds surfs this spot like a summer day in Nicaragua. Here’s one from the Marine Layer Productions archive, folks!

9 Simple Rules for Dating a Surfer

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When it comes to the dating world, surfers can be a “special” bunch. One minute you think you’re going for a nice romantic walk on the beach, the next thing you know, you’ve got a DSLR in tow, no idea how to use it and your guy (or gal) is saying “Ok, babe! Just remember to hold down the button when you see me on a wave!”

Good thing for that  tan chiseled bod, right?

Sure.

If feelings progress from “eye candy” status and you do not partake in the salty agua pleasures, here are some pointers you might consider while dating your little surfer girl or boy. RESULTS MAY VARY.

How many fins do you think he's got on the face? Always a crowd pleaser, Wedge can produce one heart-stopping drop after the next.

How many fins do you think he’s got on the face? Always a crowd pleaser, Wedge can produce one heart-stopping drop after the next.

    1.) Waves, baby…

It’s all about those bumps in the ocean. And he or she will probably want you to watch them surf, too. Don’t try to understand the obsession, just go with it. The more your significant other tries to explain their love for surfing, the crazier they might sound. Just keep in mind this is a part of their life that keeps them connected/sane/calm, so don’t try to take it away—or consider your relationship done-zo.

   2.) Expect global maps and charts to be part of your internet browser favorites/wall decor.

Don’t be surprised if  your browser’s homepage is NOAA, Surfline, The Inertia…A typical surfer loves to travel in search of the endless break, the endless summer, the endless beer bottle/coconut farm/smoothie…whatever “endless” journey they have in mind, know that there will be a map or chart on the wall depicting this journey…or a dream scene from it.

"Look at that huge trench off the coast of..." (expect that to be your next vacay spot.

“Look at that huge trench off the coast of…” (expect that to be your next vacay spot.)

3.) You will always know what the weather’s doing

You’re the first one who knew it was going to be 85 degrees in the middle of February and you dressed approps…that’s a plus, right? You’ve got your surfer to thank for that.

4.) Your dates will be based around the tide schedule

Let’s just hope your surfer significant other understands that meeting the parents is not as “tide-friendly.”

5.) Expect sand in the bed

Unless your surfer significant other is OCD, know that your bed sheets will inherit the beach. If sand critters are beginning to establish colonies and form hierarchies under the sheets, that’s when you might want to establish boundaries…and a terrific outside shower system.

Clearly you do not want this in your bed...unless you like overnight exfoliation.

Clearly you do not want this in your bed…unless you like overnight exfoliation.

 6.) You may travel to locales you didn’t know existed. Bring a hat, sunscreen and distractions.

Where the heck is Lombok? Don’t see a Groupon travel special for that one. FYI: Most surfers base their travel  around maps, charts (see ‘Wall Decor’), last minute web rates and friends with standby hook ups… The words “all-inclusive” don’t register to the briny haired.

7.) You like talking on the phone or texting for long periods of time?

TOO BAD. Those charted journeys often require several days with no cell service or if your surfer is still local, they might just be in the water–of course: the day I see someone chatting away on their phone in the lineup is the day I quit– This is a reality you will have to face. If your surfer has a travel bug, investigate your phone’s international coverage and remember apps like “What’s App,” “Viber” and Skype. It’s important to chime in while they’re submerged in a foreign country and possibly surrounded by dangerous happenings…like other half-naked, tanned and chiseled bods.

Feeling a little lost in translation? Don't fret.

Feeling a little lost in translation? Don’t fret.

8.) Do not attempt to decode surfer jargon.

Whenever he or she is around fellow surfers, it’s as if they speak another language, right? Don’t stress. This is what surfers like to refer to as “frothing” and it’s completely normal. Surfer Today has a decent basic surf speak guide.

Your first test: “Bro, did you see that perfect A-frame peak I scored on the outside?! Dude, that set was macking!! My alaia launched an air on the inside right over the kook chillin’ on that airplane wing!”

Tales can become as tall as the barrel they chat about...unless the have a camera.

Tales can become as tall as the barrel they chat about…unless they have a camera.

9.) Listen to their stories

So you’ve heard about how a shark fin surfaced three feet in front of them after their skag gashed their leg open for the ten millionth time… or that time they caught a “30 second barrel” at Huntington Pier…or the double over head wave they scored at Trestles with no one out. It’s always good to just smile and listen, even if the tales grow taller by the day.

Disclaimer: This is based on no sociological or anthropological research other being a surfer girl for the past 11 years. There are many surfers out there who do not adhere to the stereotype, these are known as your “gems.” GO FOR IT…dude.