Blame it on the Beach Boys and my orange Morey boogie board that would send my seven year-old self spinning through Salt Creek’s whitewash. I didn’t know it yet, but some kind of bug bit me good—the type of bug that constantly keeps an extra body in the lineup. This bug isn’t so rare these days, but it’s been known to cause symptoms like extreme joy when near an ocean, daydreams about the ocean and the constant urge to ride waves—results may vary!
For a brief moment, I lived within close proximity to the beach only to be driven back to my Georgia roots all too soon. As I watched the brown scenery transform to deep shades of green from an airplane window with despair, I promised I would be back. After 11 years, I hopped from Atlanta, Georgia to Austin,Texas and finally, three years later, to the west coast.
After residing in The Golden State for the past 18 years, I have had great opportunities to watch the surf world expand through not only my personal experiences, but also working at publications like Surfer Magazine and Surfline, in addition to several terrific local publications. This sub-culture has brought me to places I never thought I would go, experience cultures outside of the states and has introduced me to great friends who share the same unspoken crazy connection with the ocean.
Between my love of writing, the ocean, the arts and independent sports, it seems only natural to be a surfer girl. Much has changed within the industry and the lineups. This evolution intrigues the writer in me and although there is more to me than a surfer, I have found that like most things in life, surfing is a giant metaphor: Have zero expectations because you never know what you will find. Let go of fear. Go with the flow. It’s not always your turn.
I CONFESS: It took me three months to consistently stand up on my first real surfboard, which taught me perhaps one of the most important lessons: If you fall off your board, it’s your choice to get back on.
And that’s exactly what I did…over and over…
These are my confessions…