I am not a bitter surfer girl hell-bent on asserting her place in the lineup. My street cred includes nothing beyond 12 feet, I’m still working on my turning technique and aside from the previous owner’s left over “Stacks” stickers, my board is as white as a ghost.
I love cute colorful bikinis and slathering my locks with biodegradable leave-in conditioner. I also enjoy a solid burrito just as much as the next guy.
My semi-late induction into the small but mighty world of surfing has been an interesting experience laced with multiple viewpoints and humorous occasions. Man or woman, at the end of the day, we’re all just people trying to find our smile in the water. These are the confessions of what makes me smile, tick and laugh in the lineup…besides catching a great wave, of course.