Book Review: “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers”

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Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

In the middle of a crowded lineup maelstrom, it is always good to reflect on what brings you back to the ocean to ride those lumps of water. During weekend warrior sprints to populous breaks, sometimes we forget what draws us back to these same spots–OR–what makes us pile a hefty truck with apocalyptic supplies to seek out empty forgotten peaks—besides the beefy local who’s board you dinged last Sunday.

Face it–you weren’t always a shredder and you might have someone or something to thank for your salty introduction. Author Joseph Tomarchio’s book “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” showcases anecdotes from the every day surfer’s first time experiencing what it means to be “stoked.” From beautiful Hawaiian surf prayers to a gritty tale about fighting the temptation to paddle out during an all-time swell or study for an exam, each short story showcases tangible moments many of us have experienced post-salt water intro.

Much like surfing a new peak and experiencing the local surf banter, each of these excerpts has a unique voice describing their first time standing up on a board or beating the odds against a physical incapability just to be in the water. Heartfelt and inspiring, this book will pull at your heartstrings while you fondly recapture your own experiences, sans sunny Sunday with a beefy local’s close encounter, of course.

One of my favorite featured excerpts:

“Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn’t view such a moment without an ardent, frustrated desire, a bear-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while on might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine-yearnings…for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world’s better moments-the wave’s plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit.”

For more information about “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” or to submit your own story, click here!

Recipe: Pumpkin Ice Cream

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It’s officially fall! …Right?IMG_9219

Despite the fact that where I live the air temp still pushes towards the triple digits, I find myself in the fall mood. Somehow soups and casseroles or anything involving additional heat just doesn’t feel right…literally.

Though the closest thing we have to a leaf color change is due to California’s serious lack of water, I can always dream of seasons that include cute sweaters and unique soup recipes. Until then—let’s compromise!

Pumpkin Ice Cream, folks! (er, um…emphasis on the ICE). I initially found this recipe on good old Pinterest (surprise!) which lead me to The Gracious Pantry blog. I’m not exactly a health nut, but I do like to experiment with new and seemingly simple recipes that involve minimal ingredients. While I generally avoid dairy, the concept of frozen bananas passed off as “ice cream” was one I had seen repeatedly in other vegan recipes.

Does it work? I mean– How can you go wrong with bananas, maple syrup and pumpkin?! Easy assembly, guilt-free post 8 p.m. snacking, festive flavors and, best of all, weather-appropriate!

Oh yea—I confess: Coincidentally I already had all of the ingredients, too. :D

 

Ingredients:

  • 4 Bananas, sliced and frozen overnight
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/3 cup maple syrup (or honey! :) )
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • 1/3 cup pecans

Directions:

With the exception of the pecans, put all ingredients into your most awesome food processor or blender. Blend until creamy. Add pecans for a most awesome fall crunch. Store in freezer-safe container overnight. Remove from freezer. Use an ice pick to consume (but not really).

 

You will want to let the ice cream sit out for a few minutes before carving into it…unless you want to warm up those pumpkin carving muscles. This ice cream is yummy, but dense. Patience is a virtue, but if your sweet tooth hits you at 8:03 p.m., know that you will be eating this ICE cream by 8:33 p.m.

Happy fall eating!

 

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An October Throwback

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All-time destruction engulfs California while a fall swell lights up the coast—-never has it been more selfish to be a surfer.

The cause? Consistent Santa Ana winds blowing at speeds of 85 miles an hour out of the east in addition to drought conditions and some jerk with a pyro-fantasy.

October 2007 saw a massive outbreak of wildfires which consumed over 970,000 acres that stretched from Santa Barbara county to the U.S.-Mexico border. Much of the densely populated Southern California experienced approximately 30 wildfires in late October which were then contained by the beginning of November.

Clouds of smoke cloaked the sun which casted an eerie orange hue in the sky while surfers coughed and choked their way through the lineup. Smiles could barely be seen from the sand as rebels were spat out of each barrel’s temporary “orange room”–a mouth full of toxic air awaiting each grin.

“Did you see my barrel?! It was so $%@^%# !!” while ash slowly fell like rain all over Orange County.

It was hard to determine the central conflict: surf while fires raged and local communities cried for help, risk inhaling a five year supply of smoke -or- miss out of some of the most perfect barrels.

There were some who talked of volunteering while each Santa Ana-groomed set wave emptied like a perfect tee-pee over the sandbar. Some announced the amount of cigarettes this surf session would equate to while others casted those loudmouths dirty looks.

I CONFESS: I surfed 36th street in Newport Beach that day while I watched clouds of smoke billow from the hills. Yea, I felt guilty, so it didn’t surprise me when I later contracted several terrible sinus infections in the months to follow.

But—the barrels were #@%$#&&!@!!