Central American Daydreams

While the work day spins madly on, at times, there is a need to catch up on personal mental sanity as the work week ends. A light sparks when a Surfer Magazine link files into my surf news feed about an ambiguous Central American break that is near and dear to yours truly. While my feet huddle inside a pair of stale black heels, Pro Surfer Cody Thompson shreds a sandy beach break in 80 degree water. Even though this spot is pretty much a giveaway by now, for all intents and purposes, I’m so glad Surfer Mag didn’t name it.

 

// Post-Surf Mood //

PRESS PLAY.

You know that feeling.

It happens right after you pry yourself away from a notoriously crowded lineup where the surf was not only perfect, but you also managed to gorge yourself on said perfect waves…like the surf glutton that you secretly are.

Don’t worry: I won’t tell.

~So~

There’s only one thing left to do: A happy dance…to this song.

Soak it up while you can.

Summer’s a-comin’…

Photo: Seabreeze.com.au

Photo: Seabreeze.com.au

 

‘Resurface’ Documentary to Show Ocean’s Positive Effects for Military Veterans

The ocean has many remarkable benefits to our ecosystems and society, one of which is it’s rehabilitative effect on individuals suffering from physical or psychological hardships, such as Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. The upcoming documentary Resurface features the story about United States Marine Corps infantryman Bobby Lane who, while on tour in Iraq, suffered two traumatic brain injuries when his troop was hit by five roadside bombs within an 11 day span.

After returning home where he suffered many sleepless nights along with thoughts of suicide, Lane traveled from Texas to California to learn how to surf–his final bucket list item. Now Lane credits surfing with saving his life by helping him cope with his post-combat struggles.

Resurface showcases candid video footage and extensive research about water’s effect on the human brain. The documentary highlights the therapeutic outcome of surfing through the support of organizations who are dedicated to serving United States veterans.

There is an innate reason why the act of surfing puts people in such a good mood!

Based out of the San Francisco Bay area, Resurface  Director Josh Izenberg and Producer Scott Stillman CONFESS their insight on the film’s aspirations and message. Read on!

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

What are Resurface’s’ main goals?

Josh: First and foremost to make a great film and tell a great story, as a filmmaker. We want to raise awareness around the powers of surf, movement and being out in the world in general, as a therapeutic way to heal.

We want to really humanize and tell the story about people with PTSD from a veteran’s perspective. There is a big gap between what veterans go through and what civilians and non-military think and understand about the military experience. One thing we would like to do is close that gap just a little bit and let some of these vets tell their stories

Scott: From a personal standpoint,  I just started surfing a few years ago and felt a new level of peace and connectedness. It was amazing to feel that and to then discover that there are actually people out there who teach surfing as a way to rehabilitate PTSD, depression and traumatic brain injuries. I wanted to be involved in raising awareness for that issue because I really do think there are therapeutic benefits to being in and around the water.

What was the most helpful resource for your film?

Photo Courtesy: Wynn Padula

Photo Courtesy: Wynn Padula

Josh:  I think the biggest resources, by far, have been the Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation and Operation Surf. This is huge. If we just said ‘hey let’s show up with our cameras and you guys do your thing,’ it would not have been enough.

Scott: We also interviewed Dr. Wallace J.Nichols, Marine Biologist. He wrote the New York Times’ best seller Blue Mind, which has really been the anthology of the most recent research and studies about the benefits of water and people. He was pretty insightful in his interview and his book was a helpful resource, too. He is providing the academic research side to this project. The science and the data are actually backing up what we feel.

What were some of the obstacles that you overcame while working on this piece?

Josh: The waves are unpredictable. It’s tough to shoot in the water, even when the waves are perfect in addition to making trips to southern California. We are totally dependent on good surf. Sometimes the waves weren’t always doing what we wanted them to do. It’s tricky but we made it work.

Scott: We really hope we can get the Kickstarter funds to finish this film because we want to get it out there. I think it’s going to be really powerful to accomplish the goals that Josh went over earlier.

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

Photo Courtesy: Zachary Hill

What can the viewer do to make a difference?

Josh: We want to get the word out about the film and the campaign, so contribute to the Kickstarter campaign and also share it among like-minded folks who would be interested in participating.

Any parting thoughts about ‘Resurface?’

Scott: I would love to screen the film at different organizations that work with veterans and also even take it to the Veterans Affairs hospitals and set up screenings there.

I think it comes down to a knowledge gap where people don’t even know that organizations like Jimmy Miller and Operation Surf are out there. The more we can speak to the community who are in touch with veterans, the more likely they become involved with programs like these. Even in the middle of the country, where there is no access to the ocean, there are organizations that work with veterans going kayaking or fly fishing on the water.

Even if it’s not surfing, just being around the water is helpful.


 

Resurface is expected to release Fall 2015. Please donate to the Resurface Kickstarter Campaign and support this film’s production and message!

 

Photo Courtesy: Owen Bissell

Photo Courtesy: Owen Bissell

Keep up with the latest news about the film on:

For more information about how you can get involved with these amazing organizations, visit:

The Jimmy Miller Memorial Foundation

~and~

Operation Surf

 

[sharify]

Marine Layer Productions: One from the Archives

I CONFESS: Just can’t escape the surf stylings of Mr. Reynolds charging heavy (and not so heavy) Ventura surf…like it’s no biggie. Cold, windy and heavy conditions, especially when there are thick neoprene layers and booties involved, will usually send me packing. However, Dane Reynolds surfs this spot like a summer day in Nicaragua. Here’s one from the Marine Layer Productions archive, folks!

Surf like a Girl

The phrase “like a girl” has been dissected by most of my women’s studies college courses, friends who majored in the subject along with many other intellectual literature set to empower women in sports and society. While we can probe about the importance of gender equality in athletics or perhaps the subliminal messages advertisements and scantily clad athletes sends to young girls, I think you can get the jist in this clip featured by Always.

Ladies, case in point: SURF LIKE A GIRL.

Sponsor-less? Derek Peters Takes Care of Business

I’m sure after the four days this video went live on Surfing Magazine’s web site, Southern Californian ripper Derek Peters has since received numerous contacts from sponsors of all caliber. And if he hasn’t, I’ve lost faith in the surf industry.

Marine Layer Productions: ‘Loaded’

LOADED. from Marine Layer on Vimeo.

In between random rain clouds, chilly weather and office walls that barely shield the death metal tunes that hammer throughout the warehouse, I find comfort in Dane Reynolds latest surf film concoction Loaded –brought to the masses by Marine Layer Productions.

Loaded takes you from warm to cold, boardies to booties, mushy to hollow through the stylings of Mr. Reynolds, Craig Anderson, Noa Deane, Taylor Knox, Nat Young and red-haired Andrew Doheny….for a second I thought he was Alex Knost on a short board.

From Anderson’s long wavy locks whipping around his often shirtless bod through heaving barrels to Reynold’s chop-hops through cold shitty mush (and of course making it look impossibly fun), to Knox’s almost-airs, I’m stoked. My dull Thursday afternoon has turned into new music purchases and daylight savings anticipation (March 9th!) while my mouse quietly hovers over the ‘pause’ button in between segments.

Thanks, Marine Layer Productions.