On January 18, 2018, renowned Brazilian big wave surfer Maya Gabeira charged the mountainous peaks of Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal. According to videographers, oceanographers and academics, her wave clocked in at 80 feet. 8-0, people. Let’s take a moment to marinade on that number. That’s eight stories tall…when the rest of us are…
Since the upsetting shark attack that occurred on April 29th at San Onofre’s Church break, there have been rumors circulating the lineup that the estimated 9-11-foot shark might have been drawn to the unsuspecting gal because she was on her period. All jokes and assumptions aside, no factual evidence was discovered, not even a drop. In…
When it comes to the dating world, surfers can be a “special” bunch. One minute you think you’re going for a nice romantic walk on the beach, the next thing you know, you’ve got a DSLR in tow, no idea how to use it and your guy (or gal) is saying “Ok, babe! Just remember…
Last night my precious evening sessions commenced in front of my newly established home in San Clemente. As soon as I parked my car, with one eye on the sunset, I pulled on my wetsuit, grabbed my board and booked it down the street as fast as my legs could carry me. My first evening…
By The Way from Hayley Gordon on Vimeo. What better than to watch women surfers shred your local spots? Look no further than Filmmaker Hayley Gordon’s surf film By The Way. The film showcases local southern Cali vibe a la ‘surfer girl’ mixed with the fun times these shredders have outside of the agua. Surfer girls in their…
Evening surf sessions are back and in full-throttle for this surfer girl and I couldn’t be more stoked. However, I still wait for the day when I can sprint to Trestles and surf my beloved points and walls and catch up with my local friends. But I’ve realized: Sometimes you don’t need to sprint to…
During the months of inescapable early sunsets, evening sessions for me are pretty impossible…unless I surf with a headlamp…which I have seen done….but brrrrrr. I confess…While inching towards home along the I-5 freeway, I often watch the sun disappear and the surfer inside me stomps up and down like a four-year old pitching a tantrum.…
