The ‘Oh Shit’ Files

It’s great to see photos of perfectly shaped waves that make you salivate and re-think jobs, relationships and other potential long-term life investments. This is not the case…just big, not-so-gnarly walls of water mowing over some brave weekend warriors at Trestles last weekend.  I just happen to have my camera, albeit not the right lens,…

Just a Quickie to Mexico

South-bound feels so good to hashtag…post…Tweet…or vocalize…whatever your communication fancy, tell it to the world, be stoked and unplug, if only for a day. A couple of friends and I crossed the U.S./Mexico border for a couple of days and had the time of our lives, san distractions. Some times it is SO necessary to shut…

Tales of a Back Paddling Player

Last night my precious evening sessions commenced in front of my newly established home in San Clemente.  As soon as I parked my car, with one eye on the sunset, I pulled on my wetsuit, grabbed my board and booked it down the street as fast as my legs could carry me.  My first evening…

Marine Layer Productions: ‘Loaded’

LOADED. from Marine Layer on Vimeo. In between random rain clouds, chilly weather and office walls that barely shield the death metal tunes that hammer throughout the warehouse, I find comfort in Dane Reynolds latest surf film concoction Loaded –brought to the masses by Marine Layer Productions. Loaded takes you from warm to cold, boardies to booties, mushy…

A New Year: New places and faces

There’s something about surfing a new spot that brings out my inner child. It is one of few times I happily wake up at 6:30 a.m. on a Saturday morning and make a mad dash 40 miles south of home. Even though the term is “cabin fever,” I am re-naming it to “office fever” that…

How to Make the Best Coconut Smoothie

If you follow me on any social media, you know I’ve gone a little coco-nuts with my recent obsession with cocos. If one thing was consistent about my experience in Nicaragua, it was this: Every morning my friend Katie would wake up at the crack of dawn to pry into one or two freshly picked…

Surf Speak in Spanish

On my recent trip to Nicaragua, I found myself socializing with nothing but spanish-speaking locals. I was so stoked  because mi español became muy mejor and by the end of my week-long trip, I was helping my friends translate. There’s nothing like submerging yourself! Daydreams of those perfect warm water barrels should include a little español…