How to Surf a Crowded Lineup

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1.) Do your Homework

Thought you could escape class for a surf? Hahahahahahaha–No. If you are a newcomer/beginner/slacker, it’s good to study up on the actual break or else allow the locals to school you.

Hellllooo, homework!

And hey, we all learn in different ways! Just be sure to get a good understanding of “when the wave breaks here, don’t be there” concept and try to stay out of the impact zone. Often times perfection and hastiness will get the better of us and we charge out to the peak only to discover a side shore current that conveniently drops us off right where we don’t want to be.
Damn, there goes that Clif Bar.

In case it’s not totally obvious, ask yourself: Is it a point break, beach break or a reef? Where do you want to paddle out? Where is the impact zone? What waves are people avoiding and why? If you can stand it, take some time to chill on the sand and watch a few waves roll through before jumping in. Chances are there is a Surfline cam dedicated to that spot, so you’ve probably already watched it online, anyway.

2.) Patience, Young Skywalker

Patience, Keoni.

Once you paddle out, this is also a great opportunity to sit back, relax and observe the natural flow of the lineup. Try not to be pushy and paddle straight to the peak. Paddling out there like Billy Badass won’t score you waves unless you’re a pro…but most of the time, these guys are humble and kind when they paddle out any way. The peak is not a place for an undeserved sense of entitlement. Stow the ego.

Do not–I repeat–DO NOT snake, back-paddle or drop in on a local. That’s a great way to leave your wave count at 1 and local respect at 0.
No matter how popular or populated, always show respect for the people who have already put in their time at the break. But remember: much like they taught you in preschool, everyone gets a turn and you will get yours.
If you’re constantly getting snaked and this is your fourth or fifth visit to the spot, forget what I just wrote. (see ‘Tales of a Back paddling Player‘)

 

 

3.) An Attitude of Gratitude

Yea, you might not get the same amount of waves as you would from your usual spot at first, but showing appreciation towards the locals goes a looooong way

Getting stoked!

Remember how awesome it is to be a surfer! Think about the first time you ever paddled out and how excited or nervous you were and then think about the first wave you ever stood up on! Typically that will bring a smile to your face, right??

When the crowd grows to overwhelming proportions and your wave count is in the single digits, forget the small stuff and be thankful you have the capability to be out there in the first place. Didn’t we just celebrate Thanksgiving? ;)

:D :D :D :D :D

4.) Fight for Your Right

At Lower Trestles, anything is possible.

Just keep that Beastie Boys song in your head while you scour the lineup for a ride. If you’re a newbie, take what scraps you can get before working your way into the lion’s den. You gotta earn your stripes first, so get out there and take what you can! A little inside runner at Lowers

can sometimes be a better shaped wave than the peak, anyways! Some places are gold mines with elusive perfect peaks that sneak through the outside or swing wide from the peak. Those, to me, are fair game. Just be sure come prepared with a strong paddle game! Do those extra push-ups and keep that cardio in check because in a crowd, cardio is key.
Keep hunting grounds open for any opportunity to legitimately place yourself in a priority position and fight for that right to party…with a smile. 

 

 

5.) There Will be (more) Waves

It is not the end of the world today…at least I hope not. Good thing for us several million surfers around the planet, the ocean never sleeps or goes on vacation. It will bring more of those luscious rippable lines again…and again and again…every day, somewhere on the planet. Unless you have the time, grapes and/or Benjamins to go on an epic journey in search for your perfect private peak, crowds will always be a reality. So stop whining and put those big girl panties on!

Marching to detonate

There will always be more waves and you will only be that much more prepared once they roll through again! All the more reason to cherish those epic days when everyone at your break is scoring waves, even your newbie self. Some of my most memorable and special moments were at Lower Trestles with 50 people out during a firing swell. Smiles all around, enough waves for everyone, sunshine and dolphins …it’s magical. But don’t expect this every time. More often than not, waves won’t be perfect and the locals won’t always be in a giving mood. So sack up and practice that cardio! It’s not the end of the world! :)

Until then–absence makes the heart grow fonder.

 

 

Product Review: Avasol Sunscreen

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Winter is upon us and besides this intro already sounding like a Game of Thrones quote, it’s still essential to put on your best armor against that shiny ball in the sky. During the cooler months, we often forget  the sun is still strong enough to eventually turn our cute mugs into a texture reminiscent of a leather couch. Instead of avoiding the warm rays and essential vitamin D all together, go outside and enjoy within the safety of an all-around awesome sunscreen.

My version of “Valyrian Steel?” Avasol.

Who: “Ava” is the Samoan word for “respect” and “Sol” translates to the sun. “Respect the sun”

What I Love: From simple, sustainable and organic ingredients right down to the biodegradable packaging, Avasol won my sunscreen heart. Whether it’s surfing for several hours, miles of hiking adventures or exploring any type of outdoor terrain, this product goes where I go. I have been using this mineral-based sunscreen for the past year and have never been burned.

Originally, I found Avasol through one of the team riders’ social media posts, Waterwoman Liz Clark. Not only is she an all-around amazing human being through her sailing and surfing adventures, but she is also a terrific advocate for all things sustainable and environmentally-friendly.

Why: Because it’s just that awesome. All of the ingredients are organic and are well within my pronunciation capabilities, the smell is addictive and it stays on your dome or bod for several hours. How can you avoid a product with ingredients such as organic coconut oil, shea butter, plankton extract and cinnamon extract. Save your best lobster impersonation for Halloween!

How: Visit their website and make a wise purchase.

Cost:

  • $19.95 for 1 ounce of the Surfer’s Barrier stick which comes in three different shades and two different SPF’s.
  • $29.95 for a 2.5 ounce reusable bottle of the Environmental Defense cream.
  • $25.95 for the Environmental Defense cream refill

Extra Advice: If you’re like me and are a skin care freak, once you are out of the sun, I recommend removing this sunscreen with a makeup remover cloth or a gentle soap and baby wash cloth. Ultimately, I refer to Avasol as my “surf makeup” because it covers up really well and looks/feels like a thick water-resistant base makeup. Although it is a mineral-based sunscreen and it doesn’t seem to clog my pores, it does feel heavy on the skin.

When I’m not near a bathroom sink *cough*Trestles*cough*, my routine is: Rinse face with fresh water, wipe off Avasol with cloth, rinse once more with fresh water and apply regular daily moisturizer with spf.

So enjoy the outdoors and respect the sun! Life is too short to live inside behind “The Wall.”

 

dana pt sunset

Board Review: Slyde Handboards

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There are so many ways to ride waves these days! Our entire niche industry is obsessed with the perfect ride–we spend hours, days, months, years crafting the perfect tool to score the best wave. In the past, 18 foot wave sliders designed for Hawaiian kings have since evolved to logs with D fins or Stand Up Paddleboards to cruise point breaks. Maybe you were a connoisseur of lunch trays–Del Taco was your favorite–it had just the right type of slick bottom to glide along the face of the wave. What was once a tray evolved to a plane and now a proper board…swallow tail, carbon fiber with plenty of room for your specifics.

Enter Slyde Handboards.

Innovation and style meets a handboard perfectly crafted for riding all types of waves with minimal spray.

Let’s get one thing straight: these are actually boards…not trays, nor hand planes–BOARDS…for your hand.

I met with Slyde Handboard Owners, Steve and Angela Watts at Salt Creek and the waves were anything but playful for my board demo–full swell, overhead with a dropping tide.

“After a whole year of  R&R, we are just now releasing every shape and are excited,” said Angela. “These wedge shape boards are great for  the every day person because they can use it in big or small waves.”

Waves poured in from all angles at Creek and it seemed The Point or Gravels were the places to be.

Let the body-slamming begin!

After easing into a few insiders, I was hooked. It’s compacted fun, I thought, as one sandy wedge dredged through the inside–ones I conveniently avoided and Steve wholeheartedly plunged into.

“The Wedge boards are designed specifically to ride a wave as far as you can,” said Steve. “I’ve ridden waves all the way from out the back to the inside…you can do cutbacks with this and it sticks you to the face of the wave really well.”

My favorite thing? I can take this anywhere! Airport excess baggage fee instantly gone.

So–does it torture you to watch that perfectly peeling hollow shore break go un-ridden? Try out The Bula. Want a good starter board for all wave types? Check out The Wedge. Customize at will!

One thing I can’t promise–the places the seaweed and sand sneak into.

Pictured are The Wedge, The Wedge featuring a carbon fiber deck and The Bula

Trestles Walk

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Don’t ya wish the walk was actually this fast sometimes? ;)

Book Review: “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers”

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Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

Photo courtesy: Joseph Tomarchio

In the middle of a crowded lineup maelstrom, it is always good to reflect on what brings you back to the ocean to ride those lumps of water. During weekend warrior sprints to populous breaks, sometimes we forget what draws us back to these same spots–OR–what makes us pile a hefty truck with apocalyptic supplies to seek out empty forgotten peaks—besides the beefy local who’s board you dinged last Sunday.

Face it–you weren’t always a shredder and you might have someone or something to thank for your salty introduction. Author Joseph Tomarchio’s book “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” showcases anecdotes from the every day surfer’s first time experiencing what it means to be “stoked.” From beautiful Hawaiian surf prayers to a gritty tale about fighting the temptation to paddle out during an all-time swell or study for an exam, each short story showcases tangible moments many of us have experienced post-salt water intro.

Much like surfing a new peak and experiencing the local surf banter, each of these excerpts has a unique voice describing their first time standing up on a board or beating the odds against a physical incapability just to be in the water. Heartfelt and inspiring, this book will pull at your heartstrings while you fondly recapture your own experiences, sans sunny Sunday with a beefy local’s close encounter, of course.

One of my favorite featured excerpts:

“Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn’t view such a moment without an ardent, frustrated desire, a bear-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while on might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine-yearnings…for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world’s better moments-the wave’s plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit.”

For more information about “Legacy of Stoke: A Collection of Stories that made us Surfers” or to submit your own story, click here!

Recipe: Pumpkin Ice Cream

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It’s officially fall! …Right?IMG_9219

Despite the fact that where I live the air temp still pushes towards the triple digits, I find myself in the fall mood. Somehow soups and casseroles or anything involving additional heat just doesn’t feel right…literally.

Though the closest thing we have to a leaf color change is due to California’s serious lack of water, I can always dream of seasons that include cute sweaters and unique soup recipes. Until then—let’s compromise!

Pumpkin Ice Cream, folks! (er, um…emphasis on the ICE). I initially found this recipe on good old Pinterest (surprise!) which lead me to The Gracious Pantry blog. I’m not exactly a health nut, but I do like to experiment with new and seemingly simple recipes that involve minimal ingredients. While I generally avoid dairy, the concept of frozen bananas passed off as “ice cream” was one I had seen repeatedly in other vegan recipes.

Does it work? I mean– How can you go wrong with bananas, maple syrup and pumpkin?! Easy assembly, guilt-free post 8 p.m. snacking, festive flavors and, best of all, weather-appropriate!

Oh yea—I confess: Coincidentally I already had all of the ingredients, too. :D

 

Ingredients:

  • 4 Bananas, sliced and frozen overnight
  • 1 cup pumpkin puree
  • 1/3 cup maple syrup (or honey! :) )
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • 1/3 cup pecans

Directions:

With the exception of the pecans, put all ingredients into your most awesome food processor or blender. Blend until creamy. Add pecans for a most awesome fall crunch. Store in freezer-safe container overnight. Remove from freezer. Use an ice pick to consume (but not really).

 

You will want to let the ice cream sit out for a few minutes before carving into it…unless you want to warm up those pumpkin carving muscles. This ice cream is yummy, but dense. Patience is a virtue, but if your sweet tooth hits you at 8:03 p.m., know that you will be eating this ICE cream by 8:33 p.m.

Happy fall eating!

 

IMG_9231

 

 

An October Throwback

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All-time destruction engulfs California while a fall swell lights up the coast—-never has it been more selfish to be a surfer.

The cause? Consistent Santa Ana winds blowing at speeds of 85 miles an hour out of the east in addition to drought conditions and some jerk with a pyro-fantasy.

October 2007 saw a massive outbreak of wildfires which consumed over 970,000 acres that stretched from Santa Barbara county to the U.S.-Mexico border. Much of the densely populated Southern California experienced approximately 30 wildfires in late October which were then contained by the beginning of November.

Clouds of smoke cloaked the sun which casted an eerie orange hue in the sky while surfers coughed and choked their way through the lineup. Smiles could barely be seen from the sand as rebels were spat out of each barrel’s temporary “orange room”–a mouth full of toxic air awaiting each grin.

“Did you see my barrel?! It was so $%@^%# !!” while ash slowly fell like rain all over Orange County.

It was hard to determine the central conflict: surf while fires raged and local communities cried for help, risk inhaling a five year supply of smoke -or- miss out of some of the most perfect barrels.

There were some who talked of volunteering while each Santa Ana-groomed set wave emptied like a perfect tee-pee over the sandbar. Some announced the amount of cigarettes this surf session would equate to while others casted those loudmouths dirty looks.

I CONFESS: I surfed 36th street in Newport Beach that day while I watched clouds of smoke billow from the hills. Yea, I felt guilty, so it didn’t surprise me when I later contracted several terrible sinus infections in the months to follow.

But—the barrels were #@%$#&&!@!!

6 Things to Remember when Hiking to Havasupai

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There are times when a suburban surfer needs a change of scenery from the drive-park-pay-surf routine….or even just the general surf routine. Waves are an amazing and hypnotizing force of nature, but sometimes there is a reason to strike outside of the aqua bubble world and explore parts of nature that offer other forms of incredible beauty.

I CONFESS: I’m not only a wave junkie, but also a nature-loving, granola-eating, outdoor FREAK.

Havasupai–not to be confused with the infamous Lake Havasu–is a Native American reservation located on the north rim of Arizona’s iconic Grand Canyon. The Supai tribe is comprised of over 600 members who have lived in this beautiful canyon area for more than 800 years. The tribe’s name, Havasupai, literally translates to “people of the blue green water.” The opaque blue-green rushing streams along with several picturesque waterfalls attract thousands of visitors each year where the water remains a temperate 70 degrees Fahrenheit and weather conditions, at times, fickle. Take one photo of this place and you will feel like a regular National Geographic photog.

A ten mile hike from the hilltop known as “Hualapai” will get you into some of the most breathtaking scenery and peaceful campgrounds.

Here are some tips to consider:

1.) BRING WATER!

And plenty of it. It may be hot and muggy or cool and crisp, but no matter the atmosphere’s conditions, your body will need some consistent consumption of good old fashioned H2O. One liter of water weighs approximately 2 pounds and you will need at least 2 liters for the 8 mile hike into town. We also carried an extra 16 ounce water bottle each and dedicated it to electrolyte dissolving tablets. This was an immense help, especially on the hike back to the hilltop…and it wasn’t even hot.

Unless you are hiring a mule or have the extra Benjamins for the helicopter ride, you will be carrying everything. With all of my gear (clothes/food/water/toiletries etc.), my pack weighed about 20 pounds. This will drain you, especially if you’re not used to the added weight. The terrain varies from soft sandy riverbed to boulders, which will give your calves an added workout.

Case in point: make sure your body is well hydrated–drink, fool.

2.) BUG REPELLENT and MOSQUITO NETTING!!

I couldn’t emphasize these items more! Unless you are wary of the extreme chemicals in bug sprays or you enjoy being eaten alive in small portions,  invest in some heavy duty bug repellent. Mosquitoes are a-plenty due to the lush vegetation and water supply among many other factors (Google ‘perfumed lotions’ + bugs). They will hunt you down.  If you are camping or sleeping in your car, triple check your mosquito netting application and don’t doubt that these guys will do what it takes to make you their midnight snack.

I discovered sand dollar-sized bumps on my forehead, arms and legs in the middle of the night…eventually, I attempted my best mummy impersonation at 3 a.m. with the mosquito netting.

The only real success? –> Dave smashing the crap out of them against his brand new car ceiling (sorry, sweetie). We lured them towards the dome light while his ninja-like reflexes obliterated their existence.

Teamwork, folks.

3.) CAMERA:

Well, this is a no-brainer! Any will do because no matter what you bring, you’re going to score stare-worthy pictures no matter where you point and shoot. I recommend a camera that is durable, lightweight and possibly water-proof.

There were times where I was a little worried about slipping on the rocks and sacrificing my expensive lens to the river gods, but alas–my surfing skills paid off. ;) If your feet aren’t scratched to oblivion or resemble truck tire tread (thank you, Uppers!), water shoes are a wise investment for this trip. Save your rock dance moves for low tide at Trestles or when you aren’t toting an expensive piece of equipment. (Note to self: invest in water housing…)

If you are a photog snob and simply can’t live without custom settings and controllable shutter speed, your DSLR’s extra weight on the hike will be justified with frame-able photos in the end. There’s a reason why so many photogs are skinny!

Busting out the smart phone? Invest in a water/dust/shock-proof case for your pocketbook and mental sanity. Just know you will have to save the insta, eff book and tweet posts for later.

4.) HIKING SHOES WITH A GOOD GRIP

There are several different types of terrain once you begin your initial hike. Your shoes not only need to be comfortable, but-more importantly-they need to have a good grip. As I mentioned, the ground varies from soft riverbed sand and ankle-deep pebbles to dirt, boulders and, at times, mud. Conversation among your compadres might become quieter as your focus will shift to the ground–literally. The ground conditions can become slippery, especially when you are hiking down into the canyon. Make sure you maintain a focus–nothing sucks more than a twisted ankle–believe me.

If you have the grapes to hike down the semi-treacherous route to Mooney Falls, not only is your shoe’s grip essential, but you also need think “spiderman” with your hands. One false move could result in a serious injury. Be careful–but know the climb (not hike) to this spot is completely worth the sweat.

Oh, and if your feet are on fire by the time you get to town, I highly recommend soaking those doggies in the rushing creek. It provided me with an uncanny cartoon-like relief.

5.) KEEP SPARE CLOTHES IN THE CAR

Before your hiking adventure commences, remember to leave behind a extra set of clothing inside your car for when you return. After trekking the canyon through heat-or possibly rain!- in addition to working up a considerable sweat while hiking the 2,000 foot elevation climb on those killer switchbacks, everything will be soaking in your own broth. In addition to dust and mud stains, the heat might bake this concoction into your clothes. Wonder why you don’t have to pee as much? The proof is all over your clothes! :)

There are no public showers at the hilltop, so avoid this smelly recipe for perma-car stench. Unless you want your car to smell “eau de you,” have spare clothing on hand for the trip home.

At the very least–> clean chonies!

This is a life-saver, especially if you have a long drive ahead of you.

 

6.) HAVE FUN!

Havasupai is considered sacred land to the Supai people as they share a close connection to the beautiful water that flows through their village. It is important to always show respect as well as enjoy the natural surround. There are tons of opportunity to not only challenge your body physically, but also kick back and mentally unplug. As in all things in life, work-life balance is very necessary. Take the time to relax, unwind and UNPLUG. There’s no phone signal, internet cafe or wifi for miles, so just accept it and go with the flow. Take photos, make friends, smile at the locals, try some fry bread and contemplate what life was like without the almighty Google!

Cool fact: Supai is one of the only towns that receives mail via horseback.

True story, just ask Charlie Chamberlain!

Central American Daydreams

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While the work day spins madly on, at times, there is a need to catch up on personal mental sanity as the work week ends. A light sparks when a Surfer Magazine link files into my surf news feed about an ambiguous Central American break that is near and dear to yours truly. While my feet huddle inside a pair of stale black heels, Pro Surfer Cody Thompson shreds a sandy beach break in 80 degree water. Even though this spot is pretty much a giveaway by now, for all intents and purposes, I’m so glad Surfer Mag didn’t name it.

 

#WipeoutWednesday

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I don’t know whether it was the video’s melodramatic slo-mo or the massive crowd that seemed to populate all corners of Maui’s infamous big wave spot Jaws (a.k.a.: Peahi), but the amount of carnage in this video for one wave seems record-breaking. Out of all wipeouts witnessed over the net, this rouge wave from the past January deserves some props for it’s massive appetite. Spoiler alert: No one makes it out.

No one.

Source: World Surf League Big Wave Awards